Day Trip to Dunnottar Castle

Dunottar Castle

Although we only had to take a bus on Saturday, a few miles out of the city and you feel like you are in the most rural, historical, magical places you have ever seen.  Allen and I decided to visit the town of Stonehaven which is home to Dunottar Castle ruins and only 15 miles south of Aberdeen.  This is probably my favorite castle I have seen so far, and yet there wasn't much of a castle left.  It might have had something to do with the glorious weather that served as the roofs to most of the rooms.  I didn't even notice the hike down to the castle grounds as my bladder was filled to capacity and I was praying that there was a bathroom somewhere in the castle.  After I found the bathroom I had to wait for Allen to find me since I kind of just ran off without him.  You don't get in the way of a woman looking for a bathroom.  There were a lot of people around and I thought to myself as I was climbing stairs after stairs that I would finally have an answer to that ice breaker question "What's your most embarrassing moment?"  It was either going to be I wet my pants or I peeled off the very busy path and had to pee right there in front of everyone.  Either way it wasn't going to be pretty.  The lady at the front desk was no help when I asked her where the bathroom was, "Up there," she said with a general wave of her hand that I missed when I was looking down for cash to enter the castle.  Needless to say, I found the bathroom and then I realized what a beautiful place we were in.  :)

View from the Earl's private quarters

Owned by the Keith Family, Dunottar Castle area has been inhabited since the Pictish times (5000 BC- 700 AD).  It sits on top of a craigly cliff overlooking the North Sea and a perfect harbour.  In June, Puffins come and inhabit the cliffs in their migration and the seals, dolphins, and whales come to fish along the edge of the waters.  In the 5th century Dunottar (Dun means hill in Pictish) became the site for St. Ninian setting up a chapel and leading the Picts to Christianity and away from their Pict religion.  Then the Vikings seized the castle in the 9th Century.  Passed through hands and wars, Dunottar finally came to rest in one of the most powerful families in Scotland, Sir William Keith who became Scotland's Earl of Marischal.  So enough history, the place was gorgeous.

Stonehaven Harbour

After spending three hours at the castle Allen and I walked down to Stonehaven, which turned out to be more of a hike than we realized complicated by the fact that the road was closed.  The locals ahead of us told us, eh, you can go around it.  What they meant was, you can hang on the side of a mountain and pray that this path is actually going to lead us to town.  Once in town we found Miss Muffet's cupcake shop and decided that was the perfect way to even out all the calories we burned off walking the three miles down from Dunottar Castle.

Botanical Gardens

When I hear the word Botanical my mind goes to a humid, tropical place where the flowers bloom with color  and droop under the oppressive steam.  Nope.  Not here in Scotland.  The University of Aberdeen has a Botanical Garden named Cruickshank Gardens that isn't humid and tropical, but it has tons of flowers that are beautiful in color.  I donned my sweater and headed to the garden while the sun was out.  I didn't realize that Aberdeen University was doing a huge welcome to their "Freshers!," which is what they call their freshmen, on that day as well.  There were bands with bagpipes and free discounts for every business around Aberdeen.  After fighting the crowds, I headed to the gardens and was pleasantly surprised by all of the different types of flowers.  I brought my kindle with me and sat on a bench for a good hour soaking in the sunshine.  Just about the time I was getting sleepy, the rain started and left me standing underneath a big tree awaiting the next spot of sun.  

A little further down the road is Seaton Park.  This is filled with fields that the University can use for all different sports.  I was happy to see a team of co-eds training for ultimate frisbee.  Even though the flowers were great there too, I was more amazed at the public loo on the park.  First of all you have to pay 20 pence to get in to the stall, but the thing I was most impressed with was the automatic sink.  Put your hands under and it dispensed soap, then twenty seconds of water, and then blow dried all in the same place.  I did it twice because it was so exciting.  :)  Aren't you glad to see how well I am using my time here in Aberdeen? 

Isle of Skye

 A wonderful weekend full of plaid, wind, and beautiful views.  Isle of Skye is on the far western side of Scotland and boasts several magical landscapes and castles.  It is also the home to many seals, Highland Cows, and, of course, sheep.

Allen and I left Friday driving four and a half hours through Inverness (where Loch Ness is located, no we did not find Nessy although Allen kept his face glued to the window with the camera ready) and several other cute little towns.  The bed and breakfast room was dripping with plaid and a stunning view of the Eilean Donan Castle lit up like a fairy tale beacon at night.  I couldn't wait to start the exciting weekend full of exploration.

Eilean Donan Castle

Eilean Donan Castle was owned by the Clan MacKenzie and is located on it's own little island in Loch Duich.   It is one of the most pictureque castles in all of Scotland and has hosted a backdrop to many movies such as the "Made of Honor" in '08 and "Highlander" in 1996, which apparently is a must-see for Scottish people.  One of the more captivating stories of defending the castle came in the year 1539 when the MacKenzies joined with the MacLeods to fight against the MacDonalds.  (It's very hard to keep all of the Mac's straight.)  Daniel Gorm MacDonald came upon the Eilean Donan with fifty ships armed with all sorts of men.  The castle had two men inside, the constable and a watchman (I have no idea where everybody else was).  Seeing the boats coming, the honorable Duncan MacRae ran to help defend the castle.  Soon Duncan was the only man left stnading and had only one arrow left.  Daniel Gorm MacDonald, thinking he had won the battle, landed on the island and ordered the battering ram to break down the door and seige the castle.  It was then that Duncan MacRae let his last arrow fly straight into MacDonalds foot.  MacDonald  was so upset that he ripped the arrow out causing the barbs to tear an artery and leave him to bleed to death.  Duncan MacRae single handed kept the castle safe by taking down the leader.  Unfortunately, the clans didn't think it was that great and after marrying the newly widowed constables wife he left Eilean Donan for a better future.  Not quite the Hollywood ending, but still very interesting.

The weather report said Saturday would have scattered showers with 50 mph wind.  This meant that the winds reached 65mph and it sprinkled most of the day.  It didn't stop us from enjoying everything, though.  We pulled off the road to take pictures of waterfalls and scenery that made us giddy.  We were like children.  Taking pictures of sheep like we had never seen them before, saying "*gasp* look at that mountain!!", and always keeping a wary eye on the one lane roads.  I think it is safe to say that we enjoyed the day.

Cute little seals at Dunvegan

Sunday was spent at Dunvegan Castle exploring the grounds and the keep that actually has a Fairy Tower.  Sounds manly, right?  Well the legend says that one of the Laird's (Lord's) wee bonnies was being tended to by the maid during a Christening Feast.  The maid wanted to be a part of the festivities so she left the baby unattended.  (The story varies here but I will choose the way I heard it first) The parents went up to retrieve the baby so he could be admired during the feast and walked into his nursery to find a Fairy singing a gaelic lullaby to him as she wrapped the baby in a fine yellow silk flag.  She then told them the flag had magical powers and when flown would ensure that the battle would be won in their favor.  She warned the parents that the flag could only be used three times.  It has been used twice in battle over the 800 years that the MacLeod's have lived there, ensuring victory for them.  It now hangs in the living room awaiting it's last use.  

Sorry for the long post, it was  full weekend.  :)  Love you guys and are so glad that you are keeping up with Allen and me.  

Commercial Reality

This commercial by the local corner store captures the spirit of what happened this past week.
Boots commercial- Sunshine

Open Door's Day in front of
the Arts Building

The glorious sunshine and warm weather had everyone outside for Aberdeen's Open Door's Day.  We are talking reenactments, free bus rides, a British Science Festival, free concerts, and bubbles in front of the Arts Building.  It was magical.  And then it was over.  It's as if the sun decided to use up all of summer in last week.  For instance, today I left the house for a total of thirty minutes just to walk to the grocery store and then right back in the flat to stand by the heater.  My rain jacket dries out wearily, sighing when I grab it to go out again.  It practically yells at me, "This is why I was shipped and bought in Texas!  I did not want to live in these conditions!"  which I respond with, "Nonsense Rain Jacket, lets be brave like the locals and just endure the rain."

Today I realized, with the help of this commercial, that even the locals dislike the rain.  Every travel channel boasts about the weather and is the number one reason people are looking to move.  They say that the grey granite city that is Aberdeen shimmers after the rain.  The granite has a slight glimmer in it's rock that when moist and the sun hits it the buildings shine.  But, like most days, the granite gets moist and we all wait around to see if we can run outside and see the glimmer.  Today will not be such a day.  Sounds like a nice day to stay indoors and plan for this weekend and perhaps take on a cooking project that will leave me a nice mess to clean up in the kitchen.
Cheers!

University of Aberdeen

King's College

Inside the Library

Originally called the King's College, University of Aberdeen was founded in 1495 and continues to offer bachelors, masters, and doctorate programs.  It is the third oldest university in Scotland and the fifth oldest in english speaking regions.  And I used to think 1876 was old for A&M!  I spent the afternoon exploring their picturesque buildings and obtaining a library pass to see the view from the seventh floor.  I spent a fair amount of time in the Library at A&M, especially during finals, and it's a good thing they don't have views like the Aberdeen library.  I would never study.  The ocean is on one side, and the hills and country side on the other.  If I ever write a book that will be the place I will curl up and type away.

The weather has turned chilly and I can't help but tilt my head in the hopes to hear the cheers of fall football, but I suppose I will just have to live with my radio broadcasts and the dots on the screen.

Cheers!  More for this weekend when Allen and I head off through the Highlands to the Isle of Skye.  

Drum Castle and Castle Fraser

There is an estimated 2,000 castles in all of Scotland and Amanda and I saw it as our personal mission to squeeze in as many of these as possible, so we managed to see three.  The decision was made to rent a car and try to see these two castles which were only about thirty minutes away from each other and Aberdeen.  I started the search for an automatic car, which is very hard to find, and found an Enterprise willing to pick us up from home.

That night my stomach was in knots as I tried to rehearse how to drive on the left side.  Right turns are across traffic, left turns are like right turns in the states, no left turns on red, and then my stomach dropped.  Oh no.  Roundabouts.  I was raised in good ol' Hallsville, Texas.  Where I am from Roundabout is a fancy way of squishing our words together to tell people how long of a drive it will be, "it'll take yuh 'roundabout twenty minutes."  This circle madness is beyond my driver's ed with roads feeding in from every angle with the belief you are suppose to just jump on and then exit without hitting any of cars.

Amanda was my trusty navigator.  She did a fine job considering that none of the roads are marked and I was too preoccupied saying the word "left" repetitively to look around for her.  Our first couple of roundabouts weren't too bad.  Then after a series of wrong turns and no U-turn signs, Amanda and I were struggling.  There was a certain roundabout where the exit we wanted was on the left but I accidentally ended up in the right inner lane, it definitely brought back the scene from Europe vacation, Chevy Chase.  On my third circle I told Amanda "Look kids, there's Big Ben and Parliament!"
Click on this link to see My Roundabout Experience.

Drum Castle

By the time we successfully pulled into Drum Castle, I was tempted to kiss the pavement.  Drum Castle  was given to William Irvine by Robert the Bruce in 1325 and remained as the family's home until 1975.  Talk about settling down.  They survived many attacks and battles throughout those centuries leaving behind a beautiful home that is steeped in history and, my personal favorite, the stories of the family members who give the history some spice and nuttiness.  Hugh Irvine, was one of the nuttier ones.  He was a painter that was very talented and painted many landscapes of Aberdeen and London.  One year he went off to study in Rome.  He studied under Lord Byron who was a famous English poet and romantic.  The guide said that he and Hugh were very good friends.  Hugh Irvine sent word to his family that he was delivering a self portrait that he and Lord Byron had worked on together for the Drum home.  I wish I could have been there the day it arrived.  A twelve foot naked angel flying through the clouds with a perfectly placed ribbon and chiseled abs and the face of, you guessed it, Hugh Irvine.  The family placed it in the back Library to try and keep it concealed, but how do you really hide a 10-12 foot painting?  With a family crest motto of "Through sun, Through shade, we will prevail" I'm sure they were thinking a painting that big caused quite a lot of shade.

Castle Fraser

Another car ride over (this time we only had to turn around three times and pull over once!) was Castle Fraser.  Although not as old as Drum, it is the most elaborate Z-plan castle in Scotland, which is a specific design of where the towers are placed in a castle.  Amanda and I thoroughly enjoyed the grounds and talking to the Scottish guides who waited eagerly to tell you about all of the portraits and furniture in each room.  It was only after we finished the tour that we read the sign saying that visitors had seen ghosts in the rooms.  It also said not to worry that their ghost had always been friendly, but we decided we were about done with the tour anyhow.

Until next time! Love you guys!

Crathes Castle

Taking the bus is a norm here in Aberdeen.  Like many big cities it is not always popular to own a car and therefore you depend highly on the public transportation.  Since we had already done the plane and train thing, Amanda and I decided to try out the bus system.  Our destination was Crathes Castle, supposedly a little bit west from Aberdeen.

After finding the right bus we realized that unlike the states the bus doesn't have a nifty little scroll thing at the front to tell you what stop you are nearing.  There are also no anouncements that let you know.  After some observation, we realized that our only way of getting the bus to stop is to approach the bus driver before the stop and tell him, "Next stop please."  So there we were left with our faces glued to the window hoping we could catch a glimpse of a sign for our destination before we actually passed it.  As luck would have it, we gave up on our search to move closer to the front of the bus and admit to the bus driver that he would just have to take over the stop duties when Amanda pointed out the Crathes Castle sign.  I then leaned over and said, "Next stop, please," like a true professional.

Did you know that Concessions does not mean a cute little stand where you can buy food in Scotland?  It actually means "Special discount ticket."  So, when you ask the nice Scottish lady for 1 adult ticket and 1 concession and then ask where the food is, she will give you a very funny look.

Crathes Castle is beautiful! It has four gardens and 16th century home all originally owned by Katherine Gordon and Lord Alexander Burnett.  They had 21 children, which all slept in their room on a straw mattress that would be stored underneath the parent's bed.  The guide told us that Lord Burnett died at age 45 and Katherine lived to be 80. In the guides own words, "she finally got some peace."

It was a great day of bus adventures and meeting new people.  On to the next day!

The Weekend of London

This weekend Allen and I headed out to London to meet our friend Amanda who was coming in to town.  We took the train to London.  At first it was nostalgic and made us think of Harry Potter, but then the train kept going and there was no nice trolley with magical candies just a cafe car that sold expensive sandwiches.

It was wonderful to finally arrive in London.  Amanda was there safe and sound and we headed off to find a place to eat dinner.  Did you know that Indian food is the norm in West London?  And, even if the pub is called "Black Horse" it will still only serve Indian cuisine that leaves you looking up every item on your phone? (However the Indians that arrived after us managed to order french fries (not on the menu))

Hyde Park

Big Ben

Tower Bridge with Paralympic Rings

Sunday was spent all day in London.  We were official tourists.  Riding subways, walking to every monument that we knew we should say we saw.  The history and the architecture were incredible!  I thought I could look at these buildings all day; my feet however, told me that there was a limit of British history that they could handle.

In front of Parliament

British party hat

The London Eye

The mascots from
the Olympics.
Collect all three!!

The only available public trash
 can in all of London,
so yes, it needed a picture.

Piccadilly Circus Circus!

Feathers!! So many feathers

Our London luck was incredible!  as we were walking up to Buckingham Palace the Changing of the Guards was just starting.  As we got off the Subway at Piccadilly Circus a Circus was starting.  I half expected to see Mary Poppins fly over the rooftops towards us.
Piccadilly Circus Circus

Great weekend and looking forward to more adventures back in Scotland.